Weaving ‘figured - face flip face - fabric’ using orthogonal weft tapestry weave

Abstract

The aim of this study is to evolve new compound weave structures by modifying and permuting the existing structures. Basic principles of orthogonal structure and weft tapestry structure have been studied. New ‘Orthogonal Weft Tapestry (OWT)’ weaves are evolved by combining these two weaves and the concepts involved in deriving the new weave have also been developed. The structure of ‘Two in one’ figured fabric available in the field has been analyzed. This fabric is renamed as ‘Figured - Face Flip Face - Fabric (FFFFF)’. Suitability of OWT weave to produce diversified FFFFF has been interpreted. Superimposing the guide graphs for the preparation of weave graph has been worked out using MS Paint to weave this fabric using electronic jacquard. Methodology of making double punching graph for mechanical jacquard weaving is also explored. The feasibilities of weaving these structures are explored using heald-treadle and jacquard shedding devices either separately or in combination. Fabric samples have been developed using mechanical jacquard in handloom. The techno - ergonomics of weaving methods are compared and recorded. It is observed that FFFFF produced with OWT weave has got features like uniqueness in appearance, fascinating utility value, and possibilities of producing exclusive product range.